The Hot Springs of Wulai

I had been wanting to go to Wulai since I had first heard of it. I had been told that it was a great place for river tracing. People had described beautiful cascades along forest creeks. It was also known for its hot springs. The weather predictions were grim, but we still set out for Wulai and it's hot springs. While there was some sun, the sky was overcast and the wind blowing. We had all experienced yesterday’s downpour and knew things were not likely to be much better today.

Lawrence, one of the guys from the hostel I was living at, was trying to organize a trip and I signed on. It was a bit iffy, but I determined to go even if I did not get any hiking in. So we managed to get a group of eight together. Garry, Nick, Ned and his girlfriend, Vince, Lisa, Lawrence, and myself. We took the MRT to Xidan, then hopped on a bus to ride up the mountains.

Group photo

The bus ride was gorgeous. We rode up through winding mountain roads that offered stunning views. The rain and clouds gave the mountains a misty look. We passed over raging rivers with whitewater whipped up from the recent downpours. Waterfalls breached the forests to spill their contents into the waiting river below. I regretted not being able to take pictures, but a camera phone while standing in a zigzagging bus is hopeless.

Smoke on the mountain.

Soon we were disembarking and it was starting to rain. That was the beginning of short downpours followed by calm that would be a hallmark of the day. Some of us had umbrellas while others chose ponchos. I was in the later camp for better or worse.

Heading up the road we found a line of shops waiting. The smell of mouthwatering food drifted to us in the cool air. Dieting in Taiwan can be tricky. Sure, there is a lot of healthy food, but then you come to a stand sailing wild boar sausage with a garlic baste. I, of course, ate the sausage and have no regrets about indulging. It was one of the most succulent and sweet pieces of pork I have had.

The others browsed for their own meals. Me and Lawrence split some chicken. I also tried a tiny shrimp fried in its shell. Turns out that I prefer my shrimp without the shell. The longest wait occurred when the others found a shop selling rice wine. I mostly stood about while the others tasted. For the sake of knowledge I gave my own little taste test. I shall never understand what people see in the flavor of alcoholic beverages. Eventually they all chipped in for a bottle to drink (which would not actually get consumed till about a week later on the hostel roof).

Past that, we finally started to see what had really drawn us into the day trip. Walking out across the bridge that spanned the gorge I could look down at the rushing waters of the river below. It was swollen from the heavy rainfall. The torrent flowed with the raw power of nature. Glancing up through the fog shrouds the forests that ran along the ridge were a vibrant green. The area was soaked with life.

Walking farther down we searched for better views. Despite the weather, we were not the only people out. Others were sitting by the river's edge as though it were a calm creek. They were not inclined to wade out far though. I looked up at the stunning view that nature provided. The cloudiness did not draw away, but rather enhanced the supreme mystery that is the natural world.

After we had our fill of the view and taking pictures we walked along the road towards the hot springs. We found the steps down to the river bank. The hot spring area had a concrete pathway for us to walk along. While stone walls had been built up to pool the hot water there were no changing rooms. For those of us that had opted to not wear our swimming suits on the bus that meant it was time to change under whatever towel we brought along. Fortunately, someone had set up a tarp for their group to sit out of the rain and was nice enough to let us store our gear under it as well.

The higher up pools were a lot hotter. As in you could boil a lobster in them. It was already a warm day so I was content with the lower pools. The warm water was refreshing once I found one that was just right. It eased the muscles and took away any chill from the drizzle.

A stone sauna had been built under the steps to one of the upper tiers. It took me a few tries to acclimate, but eventually I managed a few minutes in there. Someone had brought lemongrass to freshen up the air. Even without the heat, it was a bit too claustrophobic for my tastes.

Even as we had crossed the bridge over the river we had seen people swimming. they could not actually swim against the torrent. Instead they started upstream and got out downstream. Some of the guys wanted to join the old men and women swimming the river and found a point to jump in at the hot springs.

I don't care for cold water. Jumping into a river of cold water isn't really my thing. I was there and that was part of the adventure though. So after a while I built up some nerve and walked to the end of the stone pier.

The sauna

I'm a good swimmer and was on the swim team when I was a teenager. I know a thing or two about jumping into water. Unfortunately I had not thought about how much the sauna and hot springs had opened up my sinuses. I jumped in and that cold water went right up my nose and I came up sputtering and a tad embarrassed. I swam over to the stairs and hauled myself out. I was quite ready to get back into some warm water.

Into the river

It is at this point that I would add a word of caution to anyone going to Wulai. The stones get pretty slick there. Not just from water, but algae build up. This is an open public place so there is not someone going around to clean it every night like at the local pool. You have to be careful where you step. I took a spill while trying to go around someone that wanted to stand and talk where everyone needed to walk. Better me than most people because I was able to twist my fall to the right and just bruised my butt. If I had not, I would have fallen to the left about three or four feet on to concrete, hit my head, and rolled down into the aforementioned river. This story would probably have a far less happy ending in that case.

After some more relaxing in the hot springs, me and everyone else were ready to go. There was a side area where you could go to rinse off. I actually liked that a lot because I prefer the feeling of hot water running over me to just sitting in it. Then, after drying off...it was time to get dressed in the rain. What can I say, I hate walking around in wet swim trunks. It literally rubs me the wrong way.

Once we were all assembled we headed back towards the bus area. At this point group cohesion started to fall apart. Some people wanted food. Others walked slower or faster. Me, I got some more of that amazing sausage and something that I think was egg with chocolate (it was delicious) and was probably the first to the bus stop. Lawrence and Lisa met up with me. The bus came and we took it without the rest, figuring everyone should be able to make it home on their own. I hate to leave people behind, but everyone was an adult and knew how to get back to the hostel. We did try to phone them, but no luck.

We were all a little worn out on the ride back. I wanted a shower for the same reasons you want one after going to the beach. It was getting dark so there was less of a view to enjoy on the ride back. Still, it was very much a trip to remember. I spent my time thinking about coming back and what I would do then. Hopefully, the weather will be a bit more sunny on the next visit.

The river sure was flowing.