Tips for Traveling Taiwan

It has been four months since I landed in Taiwan. I have had bumbles and stumbles, but managed to succeed. Getting by mean I had to learn a few things. I have developed a little bit of advice for anyone else that decides to travel over here. Some of it is good advice for any traveler. A bit of it is probably more specific to Taipei. So here is a little wisdom gleaned from what I have seen and done, experiences first hand and second.

Don’t flush the toilet paper. Probably the single hardest habit to break when I got to Taiwan was not throwing used toilet paper in the toilet. Taiwan's plumbing is not as robust as in the states. So instead there will be a trash can to toss things in.

Beware of squat toilets. While most places have western style toilets, some may only have traditional squat toilets. They are suppose to be cleaner and more efficient, but can be intimidating if you’ve never used them.

Patriotic dogs

Keep some toilet paper handy. As per the squat toilets above, you may find some restrooms don’t keep toilet paper in the stalls.

Be prepared to bust your own table. If you eat at smaller restaurants and some fast food places you will have some cleaning up to do after you eat. There will be separate bins for leftover food, paper, plastic, and even liquids.

Stand to the right on the escalator. The right side is if you are just riding. The left is kept open for people that are walking up or down the escalator.

The Grand Hotel.

Don’t litter. They are pretty strict on litter laws here. If you have some trash, keep it in your pocket till you find a recycling bin. Taipei is a pretty clean city.

The only “pedestrian only” space is inside your room. Once you step out of a building, right of way is given to the biggest vehicle. Bikes and scooters both drive up on the sidewalks. If you are going down a narrow street, keep an eye out for the fast moving, compact trucks.

Show no fear crossing the street. With the crazy traffic, things can be dangerous. The trick, though, is to just keep walking without stopping or changing course. They will generally move around you. Keep alert, and cross the street when everyone else does.

Paramedics get souped-up scooters for if there is traffic I guess.

Stay hydrated. Taiwan can be hot and humid. In the summer the heat index can easily exceed 40 C (104 F). He stroke and dehydration are serious risks. I try to carry a water bottle with me anytime I step outside. If I cannot get it refilled, I just pop into a convenient store and buy another.

Bring a sweat rag. As I mentioned above, it is pretty hot at times. For most of us, that means sweating. If you do not want to look drenched, having a small towel to wipe your face off when you go into a building is handy.

Those aren't alleys, they are small streets. In the USA we tend to think of ally's as dark, dangerous, and of little interest. With space at a premium, none gets wasted in Taipei. Dozens of little shops and restaurants often line these narrow side streets. They are often the place to find good, cheap, local food.

So these giant snales all over the place are suppose to be edible.

Watch out for bones. If you go to a buffet, don't be surprised if you find some bits of bone in your food. It can be a bit of a surprise to be chewing on a bit of chicken then have something go crunch in your mouth.

You can get along by pointing and smiling. I do not speak much Mandarin, but get along just fine most of the time. A smile is a good way to put people at ease. A dopey smile makes you look like you need help so people will be more patient. Pointing to what you want may not be refined, but people can figure it out pretty quick. With a bit of practice you can turn pointing and a few other gestures into a kind of international sign language.

If you have a question, ask a teenager. Most younger Taiwanese have had at least some English. They may not be fluent, but most know enough to answer simple questions or provide directions.

Be polite. A pretty simple thing that you really should do to begin with. However, some extra effort as a foreigner can go a long way. Politeness in Taiwan is not always the same as in America. Learning a few local niceties is usually appreciated.

A lego farm at the art park.

Get the address of the place you are staying/going written down in Mandarin. If you can show a card of your destination, most people will happily point you in the right direction. In fact, a lot of the time they will take you right too it. The name and address are really important if you want to use a bus or taxi.

Don’t ask what the food is, at least until after the meal. Simply put it is easier to try things when you do not know what they are sometimes. I probably would not have not tried fried squid (don't care for it) or the vegetarian place down the street (I do like it) if I had known what it was.

You are a new size. I discovered that I went from being a medium or large in America to being an XXL in Taiwan. Ladies, unless you are an A cup, bring your own bras.

The MRT is your friend. The MRT is usually the best way to get around the city. It is fast and efficient, not to mention air conditioned. Most tourist sights in the city are along the MRT lines as well.

Learn a little Mandarin. It is true that you can get by with English most of the time. It does limit options though, and makes it hard to go get anything detailed done. Knowing a handful of words and phrases, though, can help you fit in. Help, yes, no, please, thank you, you’re welcome, and sorry are a good starting point.

One of the old city gates.

Keep an umbrella on hand for sunny days. Remember that heat I keep mentioning? Well, a portable parasol is the way the locals beat the heat. I have hardly had to use my umbrella for rain, even on rainy days. Just walk under awnings.

Smells like delicacy. At some point you will be walking through a night market and smell something like raw sewage. No, a toilet did not get backed up. It is a local delicacy called stinky tofu. It is suppose to be great...if you don’t mind the smell.

Signs are in English, if you can find a sign. One thing Taiwan is pretty good about is putting things in English for any foreigners stumbling around. This includes street signs. However, I have noticed actually finding a street sign can be a bit hard. So far as I can tell, the locals just know what street is what.

Wifi is everywhere. You can get wifi on the MRT, some buses, and just about every 7 Eleven in Taipei. There are even wifi telephone booths. This means that unless you are using a lot of net, you can carry a phone or tablet around and still check your email or look something up pretty easy.

Walking will be involved. The main way to get around is foot power.  Even if you get a ride to the bus stop, you will likely be hiking at least a short distance.

Good luck finding a pay phone in the US, let alone one with wifi.

Get a ubike. All around Taipei are places where you can rent orange public bikes. The first half hour is free even. They are a great, cost efficient way to see the city.

Watch your step on rainy days. The sidewalks outside many businesses are polished stone. It is very pretty. It is also very slick when it gets wet.

If no one else is doing it, you probably should stop. You are not going to learn all of a culture's norms, and people extend a lot of leeway to foreigners. That said, one of the best clues that you shouldn't do something is looking to see if the locals are. For instance it is legal to walk down the street drinking a bottle of liquor, but I see more foreigners doing that than Taiwanese.

Watch what you say, people can understand you. It is easy to forget that a lot of Taiwanese can speak English. Keep that in mind if you are about to say something that you may not want people to hear.

They really like One Piece.

It isn't monopoly money. At first it is easy to feel rich when you see what you can buy with one bill. However, that money has real value and it you did not triple your wealth. Do the math and keep in mind what something is worth in your native currency.

Things are closed on Monday. In America, you will find a lot of things are closed on Sunday. In Taiwan, things are more likely to be closed on Monday. Lots of things are real busy on the weekends, so Monday is the day off for a lot of attractions.

No, there is not a holiday every weekend. Weekends are called holiday, even if it is just a regular Saturday and Sunday.

Up is not always north on the map. I was quite surprised to learn that maps around Taipei are not always oriented so that up is north. Always check the arrow to see which way the map is facing.

If you want good food you will have to stand in line. You can tell a place has something good if people are queuing up outside of it. If you don’t mind a wait, you may find something really good.

If you don't see a temple, bakery, or 7Eleven, then you aren't in Taiwan.

The Taipei Hostel

I feel that after two months at the Taipei Hostel, I can offer a fair appraisal. It is tad hard to rate given that it was my first experience staying in a hostel. However, it left quite the impression on me.

I arrived at the Taipei hostel in fairly desperate straights. I had just left my former hotel because I need someplace cheap to stay while I sorted out my life. At that unfortunate time I was suddenly unemployed and homeless in a country where I did not speak the language. I had a lot of luggage to deal with. I had packed to move into a new apartment, not for a short vacation. In short, a bad situation.

The staff: Lilly, Tony, and Anna.

The Taipei Hostel had come recommended by several sources so I called a cab and took the short ride to it. What I found was acceptable, and frankly better than the hotel I had been at. While there were private rooms available, I elected for the cheaper option of staying in the dorms. This came out to NT$300 (about $10) a night.

The common room with two of the guests.

The common room has several couches and a TV. A computer was provided for those that did not have a device of their own. Wifi was provided throughout the building though. A collection of books sat on a shelf for those that needed to kill time, along with maps and brochures of the area. I spent enough time on the one couch (the one that did not get baked by the noonday sun) that I placed it in a permanent state of dibs.

Across from the common room is the kitchenette. A stove and microwave along with some sparse dishes are provided for cooking. Far more important to my mind though, is a water dispenser that could provide cold or boiling hot water instantly. Given that you are not suppose to drink the tap water and bottled gets expensive fast, this is a real money saver in maintaining proper hydration.

The kitchen starring Anna and Ron.

The front desk has a rotating staff. The person I saw there the most was Lily. She was always helpful about providing information, and translations. She enjoys watching Korean dramas in the evening. After a while I found myself watch too. I could not understand what was being said, but I was not going to get off of my spot on the couch so I made up my own stories. I listened to Lily tell the story of the hostel’s history one night. She told me and several others that it was the first hostel in Taipei. She had been working there ever since, and as you can imagine had seen quite a lot. The longest border had been a man that stayed over a year.

My dorm.

The dorms are segregated between male and female, in theory. There were around twenty beds for men, and about eight for women. Not many women stay at the hostel, and those that do usually get a private room or a group room. On the rare occasion that there is an abundance of female patrons, they overflow into the men's’ dorm. My only problem with this was having to check before changing my pants.

The bunks were not so bad. The pads were actually pretty comfortable I thought. It would have been just fine if I slept on my back, but I prefer my side. If you needed the linens changed you just had to let Anna, the housekeeper, know. Each bunk had its own fan and light, a small shelf, and a rod to hang things on. They also have a curtain you can close. Each dorm has its own refrigerator to store food and a bathroom. The bathroom is the Taiwan standard wet room with a toilet and shower.

My bunk.

A quick walk up some stairs takes you to the rooftop. There is a washer and dryer to use, as well as clotheslines. A few weights are there for those who want to work out. A lot of guests like to go up there in the early morning or evening. I preferred the morning because there was less likely to be smokers up there. It provided a nice spot to rest, if not the most amazing view.

The hostel has a really good location. It is just minutes away from an MRT station, and the Taipei Main Station is the next stop. There is a nice park nearby with a track to run on. There are plenty of places to eat. I prefer local food, better and cheaper, but now and then I would hit up the McDonalds. Mainly for ice cream. There is an obligatory 7Eleven nearby plus a supermarket within walking distance.

Up on the roof.

I only had two real problems during my stay. The first was the limited air conditioning. In the dorms they only run the AC from 11pm to about 7am. In the middle of the summer that means the dorm rooms are unbearable most of the day. Once the weather cools down it is not so bad, but on a 40* C day you will not even want to be in there long enough to change cloths. During my first month there, I spent a lot of time in the common room because they would turn the AC on in there sooner if it was sweltering.

The other problem is related. There is no vent in the bathroom so it turns into a hotbox pretty quick. Even taking a cold shower I would be sweating before I had time to finish shaving. Again, once the weather cooled, this was less of an issue.

So on a five star scale, I would rate the Taipei Hostel at 4 stars. It has decent accommodations for a reasonable price. Its centralized location is a great selling point. I would probably stay there again if I needed a place to stay in Taipei, though I might opt for a private room with AC in the hot part of the summer.

The 2-28 Memorial Peace Park

There are many tranquil places to visit in Taipei. Parks are a particular draw. People like being able to get away from the hustle and bustle of life. These clean, green havens are ideal for that.

An oasis of green in the city

There are a multitude of these verdant islands to choose from. They range from small parks hidden between buildings to massive metroparks. Some have only a bench or two. Others have ponds and temples. The large ones host concerts.

Center of the pond.

I have visited several, but a favorite of mine is the 2-28 Memorial Peace Park. I first discovered it after a visit to the doctor. I was looking for the ubike stand when I found the park instead.

An art memorial

The shade was a welcome relief on a sweltering day. The breeze spread out through the park cooled me as I looked around. It had the usual assortment of statues and trees with plaques. More interesting was the tall temple at the center of a man made pond with a bridge reaching across the expanse. Pagodas peppered the area to provide shady places for people to sit and relax or talk. At the far end from where I entered were a few pieces of modern art.

Birds were abundant. I watched keenly as they stalked the grass for prey. Squirrels sprinted through the trees, largely ignoring those of us trapped on stony ground. They are not above trying to look cute for some food. I was delighted to find turtles floating in the pond until I realized they were likely abandoned pets. Someone had kindly placed a small raft for them to climb out on and sun themselves though.

I returned at another time when my mind was in turmoil. It boiled with the fears and aggrevations that griped me tight. Resting on a stone bench that had been warmed by the sun was a great way to let go of my troubles. My mind turned to the turtles in the water as I bordered on the edge of passing out.

Turtle, turtle turtle...

Another time I went there late in the evening with a good friend after dinner. She had been a bit nervous because the place is suppose to be a gay cruising ground. I do not know why though. I am the one that would have gotten hit on. We apparently arrived early enough to avoid that. Instead we sat at a quiet pagoda to chat, exchange teaching tips, and practice language exchange.

Each time I return there seems to be a little bit more for me to see. I still have not yet fully explored the park, even though it is not huge. I find myself always finding some place quiet to sit and think instead. There is a history museum at one end that I still need to visit. I need to look closer at the art and some of the historical points around the park.

Such a peaceful place, but with such a violent history. The park was constructed as a memorial to the February 28th Massacre.  On that dread day of February 2nd, 1947 the KMT had soldiers open fire on protesters in a bloody crackdown. This was the start of official martial law as thousands were killed.

The park is a reminder of that dark day. Such a stark contrast makes it hard to decide how to feel about it. I choose, perhaps only as an outsider truly can, to focus on the peace aspect. What happened cannot be the only thing that defines such a park. It is not only a memorial, but also a legacy. From tragedy came a modern democratic nation.

Parks are good for bird watching

Up Elephant Mountain

What had been a major attractor for me in coming to Taiwan was being able to get out and see new things. I wanted to see the forests and mountains the island had to offer. The ranger in me wanted to see exotic foliage, fauna, and minerals. Yet, I had been largely limited to the city. A lot of this was circumstance. It is easier to to see sights within the city and being sick as a dog does not encourage travel.

It came the monday of the Moon Festival, though, that I was finally feeling better and had some free time. After hearing all about it, I wanted to finally hike up Elephant Mountain. It is said to have the best view of Taipei 101. So I woke up early, or at least tired, and took the MRT to Xiangshan.

I walked out of the station into a very nice park. There was even a fenced off area for frog habitat. I started down the wrong path until a biker was nice enough to point me on the right way. Walking through the park was pleasant. A small shrine is located near the entrance. Walking through I saw people enjoying morning exercises.

A pretty park shrine

To reach the trail I had to walk up the road a good piece. Other people heading in the same direction were helpful in finding the weathered stone steps that would take me up the mountain. The stone blocks led up through the thick forest and past a temple where a woman sold water bottles. I had brought my own, but had I known what lay ahead I would have bought another.

Up, up, up...

Up, up I went. The steps seemed never ending after a while. Sometimes they were short, forcing a stifled pace or taking two at a time. At other points they were large blocks. The path changed between level points and steep climbs up. The top seemed to remain elusive. I would reach one landing to only find that the climb up continued on.

The entire time as I trudged upwards I was surrounded by lush forest. The vibrant greens stood out in contrast to the stark gray of the stony steps that were my path. Side trails branched off, many looking like they were created by curious hikers rather than intended paths of travel. I am hesitant to go off trail, at least in a formal park, but these off the beaten path trails were mighty tempting.

There were places to stop along the way up. Little benches to sit and rest. Viewing areas offered a chance to look back on the city. Truly, the view of was as promised. Taipei 101 rose high above all of the rest. The great sentinel pointed up to the sky like it might well pierce the clouds.

Pushing on, I finally reached the summit. The most surprising discovery was that there was an outdoor workout area. So if one was not already exhausted, there was the option of calisthenics. I was told by another hiker that the small gym had been funded by private donations. There were people there, as well, getting in shape. It was primarily an older group, people determined to live forever.

Following the path I found picnic shelters for those wishing to enjoy a view with their lunch. I had come early enough that I had not brought a meal, I made plans to do just that at a later date. Hopefully I can find someone that will join me for a high altitude meal. I rested and observed what lay around me as my energy refreshed.

A butterfly finally held still for a picture.

There were many things to see that I had already glimpsed on the hike up. Butterflies were abundant. They fluttered around, feasting on the bright flowers. Yellow and black spiders with long legs that spread out to the size of my hand spun massive webs in the trees. My best guess was that they lay in wait for a butterfly to flap into one of their traps. Sweet olive was the only plant I could truly identify. There were many tropical trees, though, and bamboo formed thick walls. I even found a frog happily croaking away near an isolated puddle.

As I continued to hike along the ridge I could hear chanting, music, and the occasional string of firecrackers. I took another trail down, following the sounds. Making my way down some old stone steps I found myself coming around the backside of a temple. I watched as they performed a ceremony of some kind. I have to presume it related to the Moon Festival.

I watched in solemn silence, not sure what was going on with the ceremony. It would have been to rude to ask someone what was going on. I mainly hoped to see some fireworks go off. My attention eventually turned to the temple itself. It was a work of art with amazingly detailed dragons and carvings. It was a mix of bright colors and gold filigree.

Eventually I was forced to go. I was tired and thirsty. I hiked back up so that I could hike back down the right side. I passed by people still working out at the summit. It had grown late and hot though. Fewer people were up now and the stream of people hiking up had trickled down to only a few.

I took in the view that had been to my back as I ascended earlier. The Taipei skyline was stretched out for me with Taipei 101 pointing towards the heavens. I stopped to climb up some rocks for a final stellar view before descending into the tree cover.

The grand view I climbed up there for.

As I neared the end I was exhausted and dripping sweat. Recent poor health combined with adjusting to a new climate had taken its toll on me. I bought a power drink (the lady selling it was kind enough to open it for me) and guzzle it down. Back in the park I showed more ambition than good sense when I hopped on a ubike rather than the MRT to go look for a much needed lunch.

A pretty good workout.

Trials and Tribulations of Travel

Getting to the other side of the world is not an easy feat. I found myself jumping through hoops to get paperwork done. Figuring out plane tickets was tricky. I needed the right flight at the right time, for the right price. Then of course there is packing. Then of course there is packing. For a short trip it is pretty simple, but for a long trip, let alone moving, there are a lot of things you want to bring, but you cannot take it all.

All of these were just the tip of the iceberg in frustrations. They were understood and expected. They were all things that had happened before. It is the things we do not see coming that hit the hardest. The new and unprepared for can leave you confused, scared, and angry.

My world was turned upside down when the job I had expected was yanked out from under my feet. I had gone from being a man with a plan to unemployed and homeless in a country where I did not speak the language. An unenviable situation to say the least. What should I do? I could book a return home. There was the option of seeing a bit of asia, then going home. Neither of those appealed. My final option, and the most daunting, was to try and find another job.

I chose to pick up the gage and stay.

My first and most pressing concern was for all of my belongings. That may seem trivial, but they created a logistics nightmare. I had several heavy bags that were not easy to transport. I had expected to make one or two moves once I arrived in Taiwan then settle into an apartment.

I did have encouragement though. I had made friends during the Hess training program. While the company had discarded me, they had not. As well, I had made a few Taiwanese friends who were utterly shocked by what had happened. One good friend even offered to let me stay at her place if need be. People were very supportive and offered what advice and assistance they could. Some of the most important was helping me stay in the hotel one more night without the staff noticing. That bought me time to straighten out my mind and set my priorities.

I eventually settled on the Taipei Hostel for temporary residence. I went through the gauntlet of getting my stuff there, but found the place suitable and reasonably priced. It offered me a small grasp of stability to launch my job search from.

Hunting for jobs was no easy task. There are lots of openings, but of course they want experience. I also have a good number of people to compete against for them as well. I had to go through a few rejections and each one made it harder to hope. I have never been the most diligent at hunting for employment. It requires more focus than I was imbued with. I put all effort forward that I could muster though, even as my hopes waned.

To complicate matters, I found myself sick. At first I thought it would pass and avoided the doctor. After several days I caved and went to the hospital. The visit was not bad and I walked out with a handful of prescriptions to treat my symptoms until my body adjusted to the my new region. They worked for a time, but when they ran out, I was sick again, and getting worse. I am fairly sure I was running a low grade fever for a week or so. It is hard to ascertain such things when you lack a thermometer and are in a tropical region. My second trip to the hospital the doctor declared tonsillitis and prescribed antibiotics. It took a few days, but soon I was recovered.

As my illness ended, I was finally able to find employment. A small school needed a part time teacher, six hours a week. I had to demo teaching a class that could be described as rambunctious to say the least. I succeeded though, mostly through not leaving in the middle I suspect. The pay was enough to cover my rent at the hostel and about three days worth of food.

There is still more that needs done. If I can get a few more hours I can afford an apartment. I have to keep looking and not become complacent. If i cannot get a full time job, I will have to do a visa run to stay in the country. For now, at least I can survive. That of course is provided that the children do not eat me alive.

I am known to be a jaded cynic with a low opinion of the human race. I believe, though, that individuals can overcome and rise above the nature of humanity. I owe a great deal of thanks to many people who have supported and encouraged me through all of this. Budens are easier to bear when you have others offering to lift some of the weight. It warms my heart when people show kindness to a traveler in need.

To the Hot Springs of Beitou

Perhaps one of the things that I most looked forward to about traveling to Taiwan was visiting the hot springs. For a long time I have heard about the health benefits of hot springs and how relaxing they are. I have been in hot tubs and hot showers, but they are not the same thing. Certainly, they lack the appeal that a natural pool does.

It was for that reason that I traveled to Beitou. My travel guide had placed it as the spot for the nearest hot springs along with being an important historic site. The waters were said to have particularly strong healing properties do to minerals in the water. That was something I quite needed. A week of illness had left me weak and with horrid chest congestion.

The view from the MRT station.

I got a late start, but the MRT got me to Beitou before noon. It was then that I fully realized that I would actually need to take a second line up to Xinbeitou to where the hot springs were. It was a short, comfortable ride. After finding my bearings I discarded the idea of taking a bike in favor of my own two feet.

The roads were well marked with signs to point a traveler on to their destination. Passing through a scenic park provided some shade from the scorching sun. It also allowed me my first chance to spot the green rocks that rested in the creek that wound its way down the hill from the hot spring. I found myself thinking on their color, wondering if it was a property of the rocks or some kind of algae.

Green rocks and ham?

The first real stop was at the Beitou Hot Spring Museum. I have been to museums before, but this was the first time I was required to take my shoes off to enter one. Slippers were provided. The staff was amused by the way I had tied my shoelaces together and hung them over my shoulder before discovering the cubby to place my shoes.

Music and art.

The museum was originally the Beitou Public Baths. It had been built by the Japanese during their occupation in the early 20th century. Walking through I could experience the history of how hot spring bathing was first introduced to the island. My imagination played with what it would have been like back then, people filing in to clean and relax. Open air terraces let a cool breeze wafted through the building. Inside, decorated instruments, mandolins, I believe, were strung up in an interesting art gallery.

I was most fascinated by displays on the mineral properties of the area. They had samples of the green sulfur I had seen in the water earlier. More interesting though was learning about the Hokutolite that can be found on the stones of the pools. Hokutolite is a crystalline mineral that is slightly radioactive. It is fairly rare, with Beitou having a very high concentration.

Continuing up the path I finally reached the reason for primary goal of my quest. The public bath was nothing terribly elaborate. A small kiosk at the front charged NTD 40 for entrance. There was a bathing suit rental, but I had come prepared. Down a set flight of wooden steps were the waiting bathing pools. The pools were tired with the highest being the hottest and the water from it flowing down to the middle and then to the lowest. There were also two cold pools as well. I changed and made my way eagerly for the water.

No photos in the hot springs, so settle for the entrance.

It is at this point that I will take a moment to speak on hot spring etiquette, something that I never quite mastered. There were showers available, and I believe that one is intended to wash before entering the pools. As well, there were buckets that I eventually realized were for dousing ones feet before entering the pools. I am not entirely sure why, though I think it has to do with cleanliness or acclimation. Once in you are expected to find a place and sit, not stand or move around. It took a lot of whistling from the lifeguard, and someone finally explaining in English for me to figure that part out. Also, no dunking your head. Finally, while it might be nice to carry around healing mineral water on your body all day, I would recommend rinsing off afterwards, which I think most people did. The water is from a natural spring and carries sediment that you may find uncomfortable as it dries, dirt, and of course a bit of the people around you. No chlorine in this pool.

A very nice park.

I will readily admit that I underestimated the heat of the hot springs, along with my own tolerance for it. Admittedly, if it had not been a scorching day I think I would have done better. The lowest pool was almost too much for me at first. Slowly, my body acclimated though. I worked my way up to the middle pool a while later. The highest and hottest was beyond me though. I found myself vowing to try again when cooler weather came and the heat would be more bearable. I ended up spending most of my in the cool pools. They were relaxing as well, and much more weather appropriate. They left me refreshed when it was time to finally leave.

The creek I was following.

As mentioned above, I was feeling ill and heavily congested. While the radioactive water did not cure me, I do believe it helped clear my breathing up for a while. After a bit of soaking I started to feel a kind of tightness in my lungs. Later on I had to step away to expel some of the blockage from my lungs. For most of the rest of my day breathing was far superior.

Waiting at the top of the stairs as I left was a woman selling popsicles. It comes with a hearty recommendation that one buy the cool treat after being boiled for an hour. With my cool treat in hand and my health at least slightly improved, it was time to hunt up some more of what Beitou had to offer.

Yu Youren's desk, with his own caligraphy.

A short distance on I came to the Plum Garden, yet another historic site requiring me to doff my shoes. This marvel of architecture had served as the summer residence for one of the men that helped shape Taiwan. Known as the Modern Sage of Cursive Script, Yu Youren helped create modern Chinese journalism, held numerous government offices, and promoted education. The tranquil space was noteworthy for its blend of architectural designs. While the artistry of the building was not lost on me, it was the trees and shrubs outside that delighted me most. They were labeled and close enough for me to make a good study of them for future reference.

Hot spring shrine

I carried on with my journey intent on seeing some hot springs that were more visually exciting than useful for bathing. Boiling sulphur springs are not recommended for taking a dip. Hiking up the road I found the path to the Thermal Valley. I could smell it almost as soon as I saw it. The brimstone stench waffed on the air. Steam rolled off of the hot pond, raising the heat and humidity to nearly unbearable levels. As I made my way around the steaming pool I found a small shrine to climb up and visit. With my pictures snapped, I beat feet for cooler ground.

A lot of very hot, very smelly water. 

I continued on my path of exploration. It was growing late, and my legs tired. When I realized it would be a good hike to the next destination, I instead turned back down the road. I followed the creek from the other side till I could have dinner from a local bakery. With my primary objective met, I headed back to the MRT and on my way home.

I did make a few stops along the way. The farmers market was interesting, but closing down. I got more food at the Shilin night market. In a moment of curiosity I tried a Taiwanese take on an American burger joint. They had the decor down pretty well. The burger was not to bad either, though light on pickles and beef and heavy on the other toppings.

All that hiking works up an appetite.