To the Hot Springs of Beitou

Perhaps one of the things that I most looked forward to about traveling to Taiwan was visiting the hot springs. For a long time I have heard about the health benefits of hot springs and how relaxing they are. I have been in hot tubs and hot showers, but they are not the same thing. Certainly, they lack the appeal that a natural pool does.

It was for that reason that I traveled to Beitou. My travel guide had placed it as the spot for the nearest hot springs along with being an important historic site. The waters were said to have particularly strong healing properties do to minerals in the water. That was something I quite needed. A week of illness had left me weak and with horrid chest congestion.

The view from the MRT station.

I got a late start, but the MRT got me to Beitou before noon. It was then that I fully realized that I would actually need to take a second line up to Xinbeitou to where the hot springs were. It was a short, comfortable ride. After finding my bearings I discarded the idea of taking a bike in favor of my own two feet.

The roads were well marked with signs to point a traveler on to their destination. Passing through a scenic park provided some shade from the scorching sun. It also allowed me my first chance to spot the green rocks that rested in the creek that wound its way down the hill from the hot spring. I found myself thinking on their color, wondering if it was a property of the rocks or some kind of algae.

Green rocks and ham?

The first real stop was at the Beitou Hot Spring Museum. I have been to museums before, but this was the first time I was required to take my shoes off to enter one. Slippers were provided. The staff was amused by the way I had tied my shoelaces together and hung them over my shoulder before discovering the cubby to place my shoes.

Music and art.

The museum was originally the Beitou Public Baths. It had been built by the Japanese during their occupation in the early 20th century. Walking through I could experience the history of how hot spring bathing was first introduced to the island. My imagination played with what it would have been like back then, people filing in to clean and relax. Open air terraces let a cool breeze wafted through the building. Inside, decorated instruments, mandolins, I believe, were strung up in an interesting art gallery.

I was most fascinated by displays on the mineral properties of the area. They had samples of the green sulfur I had seen in the water earlier. More interesting though was learning about the Hokutolite that can be found on the stones of the pools. Hokutolite is a crystalline mineral that is slightly radioactive. It is fairly rare, with Beitou having a very high concentration.

Continuing up the path I finally reached the reason for primary goal of my quest. The public bath was nothing terribly elaborate. A small kiosk at the front charged NTD 40 for entrance. There was a bathing suit rental, but I had come prepared. Down a set flight of wooden steps were the waiting bathing pools. The pools were tired with the highest being the hottest and the water from it flowing down to the middle and then to the lowest. There were also two cold pools as well. I changed and made my way eagerly for the water.

No photos in the hot springs, so settle for the entrance.

It is at this point that I will take a moment to speak on hot spring etiquette, something that I never quite mastered. There were showers available, and I believe that one is intended to wash before entering the pools. As well, there were buckets that I eventually realized were for dousing ones feet before entering the pools. I am not entirely sure why, though I think it has to do with cleanliness or acclimation. Once in you are expected to find a place and sit, not stand or move around. It took a lot of whistling from the lifeguard, and someone finally explaining in English for me to figure that part out. Also, no dunking your head. Finally, while it might be nice to carry around healing mineral water on your body all day, I would recommend rinsing off afterwards, which I think most people did. The water is from a natural spring and carries sediment that you may find uncomfortable as it dries, dirt, and of course a bit of the people around you. No chlorine in this pool.

A very nice park.

I will readily admit that I underestimated the heat of the hot springs, along with my own tolerance for it. Admittedly, if it had not been a scorching day I think I would have done better. The lowest pool was almost too much for me at first. Slowly, my body acclimated though. I worked my way up to the middle pool a while later. The highest and hottest was beyond me though. I found myself vowing to try again when cooler weather came and the heat would be more bearable. I ended up spending most of my in the cool pools. They were relaxing as well, and much more weather appropriate. They left me refreshed when it was time to finally leave.

The creek I was following.

As mentioned above, I was feeling ill and heavily congested. While the radioactive water did not cure me, I do believe it helped clear my breathing up for a while. After a bit of soaking I started to feel a kind of tightness in my lungs. Later on I had to step away to expel some of the blockage from my lungs. For most of the rest of my day breathing was far superior.

Waiting at the top of the stairs as I left was a woman selling popsicles. It comes with a hearty recommendation that one buy the cool treat after being boiled for an hour. With my cool treat in hand and my health at least slightly improved, it was time to hunt up some more of what Beitou had to offer.

Yu Youren's desk, with his own caligraphy.

A short distance on I came to the Plum Garden, yet another historic site requiring me to doff my shoes. This marvel of architecture had served as the summer residence for one of the men that helped shape Taiwan. Known as the Modern Sage of Cursive Script, Yu Youren helped create modern Chinese journalism, held numerous government offices, and promoted education. The tranquil space was noteworthy for its blend of architectural designs. While the artistry of the building was not lost on me, it was the trees and shrubs outside that delighted me most. They were labeled and close enough for me to make a good study of them for future reference.

Hot spring shrine

I carried on with my journey intent on seeing some hot springs that were more visually exciting than useful for bathing. Boiling sulphur springs are not recommended for taking a dip. Hiking up the road I found the path to the Thermal Valley. I could smell it almost as soon as I saw it. The brimstone stench waffed on the air. Steam rolled off of the hot pond, raising the heat and humidity to nearly unbearable levels. As I made my way around the steaming pool I found a small shrine to climb up and visit. With my pictures snapped, I beat feet for cooler ground.

A lot of very hot, very smelly water. 

I continued on my path of exploration. It was growing late, and my legs tired. When I realized it would be a good hike to the next destination, I instead turned back down the road. I followed the creek from the other side till I could have dinner from a local bakery. With my primary objective met, I headed back to the MRT and on my way home.

I did make a few stops along the way. The farmers market was interesting, but closing down. I got more food at the Shilin night market. In a moment of curiosity I tried a Taiwanese take on an American burger joint. They had the decor down pretty well. The burger was not to bad either, though light on pickles and beef and heavy on the other toppings.

All that hiking works up an appetite.