Surviving Manila

It really says something about a place when people from there tell you not to go. They left the place, why would you want to go there? I needed a cheap place to do my first visa run too, though, and Mannila was as cheap as it gets. It was someplace I had never been. Even as bad as everyone made it out to be, I thought with only two days I could get something out of the trip.

Things did not start out auspiciously. I ended up having to take a cab to get to the airport instead of the bus because, well, I could not find the bus station. Turns out there are several bus stations in Taipei and the one I knew about was not the right one. I need not have worried about being late though. My flight was delayed several hours.

Look who's ready for adventure.

I was unwinding on the flight when things took an unfortunate turn. There was a team of soccer players on their way to the Philippines as well. They had all been drinking while waiting on our late flight. One man had gotten drunk enough that he passed out on his way to the toilet. They asked if anyone had medical training and I was the only volunteer. When I got up front he was on the floor, bleeding from the head. I got him bandaged up as he came around. He and the flight attendants ignored my advice about him staying put. He insisted on using the bathroom still and they did not want him on the floor for our imminent landing. So I washed my hands of the issue and took my new seat up front.

Once we hit the ground it did not take me long to gather my belongings and get through customs. I stepped out the airport doors into the the thick air and started to search for a taxi. They were all lined up with the intent of getting my business anyway they could. A tout came up with the claim that he represented the official airport taxis and claimed that other taxis were not to be trusted. When I asked about rates, he gave me an outrageous price. I had done my research and knew that it should only be 300 pesos, not 2000. After no luck with the others nearby I was starting to wonder what to do.

Pro Tip: Cabs in the Philippines, especially at the airport will rip you off if you do not know the real cost. Be firm on what you are willing to pay.

Then I saw Jay, the man that had been sitting next to me on the plane after I helped the injured drunk. He was a local and told me that all of the cabs waiting around would be a rip off and that it was better to just walk over to the hotel and get a cab. So I followed him. He even flagged a cab down for me. Sometimes you run into good people.

The cabbie was friendly and spoke fluent english. So far as I can tell he did not try to rip me off. The drive gave me a chance to get a feel for the city. It was dirty, but bright with neon lights. We passed by a half dozen strip clubs in addition to the bars and clubs. My hostel was a bit tough to find. They need a bit better sign placement.

Where2Next was a literal breath of fresh air. The air conditioning was a godsend after being out in air so thick you could swim through it as easily as walk. Clean and modern it was like being in a completely different place from being outside.

Common room of the hostel.

Outside the hostel was a neighborhood set up to cater to and prey upon tourists. Neon signs flashed to advertise bars, clubs, massage parlors, and hostess clubs. Most of course were peddling flesh more than drinks. There were stores to buy cheap, yet still somehow overpriced items such as bottled water. People roamed the street begging for money.

Once I was checked in I tried to use the internet. I have not experienced something so slow and unreliable since I was a kid using dial up. Fast internet is something you become accustomed too the point that it throws you off when you lose it. I finally managed a few messages to let people know I was OK so that I could go to bed.

In such a sweltering place I never would have thought I would be unhappy with air conditioning. The air was actually turned up so high that I was freezing half the night with nothing warmer than a sheet for cover. I have not left my sleeping bag at home since. I woke in the morning feeling utterly exhausted. I did not want to sleep in (as though I could in that cold), I wanted an adventure. So I got a quick shower and headed down for breakfast in the lounge.

What I had read online said that the money exchange at the airport was a total rip off so I had only changed a little. I hit the street to find a changer with a decent rate. Seeing the area in the daylight was shocking. It was even dirtier while deserted of the people going about their night business. There were about seven money changers down the block, half of which might as well have just robbed me. I found one that was close to what the airport had been and was content that that was as good as it gets. Walking down that street I had men trying to sell me everything from jewelry to an iPhone 6. With my money taken care of I decided to start my big adventure. Well an adventure. I was to tired for much. Walking down the street in Manila is its own adventure though.

Pro Tip: Theft proof yourself as best you can. I had money in different pockets. My ID and debit card were in a hidden pocket of my belt pouch that was double strapped to my body. I had a copy of my passport while the actual one was locked up at the hostel.

I walked a couple blocks to where the Jeep near rout was. I walked along squalid streets past closed down bars. Children came up to me begging so I handed out a few pesos in front of a historic church as a wedding was being rehearsed. The oddest encounter was a man coming up and offering to let me shoot guns for $50. "I have uzi, AK 47,  and 9mm." I guess that is what they expect Americans to do after whoring around the night before.

The jeepneys were one of the most interesting parts of my trip. Old US military jeeps were converted into cheap public transportation. Each jeepney is customized with its own delightfully garish color scheme. They seem lively and add color that was otherwise lacking to the city. I hailed one over with more than a bit of excitement. The bench seat was rough, but the open air felt good in the heat. In a surprising honor system you pay by passing your money to the person next to you until it reaches the driver.

Jeepneys are a heck of a way to travel.

The bumpy ride made me smile. The locals probably thought I was crazy for being that happy to get shaken around. A memorable moment was when we were stuck in traffic. A girl who looked about ten or twelve years old climbed onto the back bumper/step and started to sing a song as she passed around an envelope. It was a sad melody. I put a few pesos in.

Mall of Asia

So did I go to a historic site? A natural landmark? A museum? No, I got off the jeepney at the Mall of Asia, one of the largest malls in Asia. Hey, I said I was tired and had a headache. The first point of business was food. I found a Pizza Hut of all places. It was decked out more like a four star restaurant. I actually ended up getting some pretty good pasta there. It is funny how the places we think of as common and cheap at home are a big deal in other countries.

Getting into the mall was it's own special experience. I had to go through a security checkpoint like at an airport. They even checked my adventure bag before letting me through. Most of the stores ended up being a bit to high end for me. So much for finding some cheap deals. The mall was meant for the rich.

I thought a walk along the waterfront would be a better option. Not so much. It was utterly filthy and reeked. The rocks were covered in garbage and you could see that people climbed down to use the water there to wash and perform other bodily functions. The water was polluted and oily from the ship that crowded the bay. The food stands and fair rides for those with money seemed so out of place. Opulence pressed against poverty.

Looking over the bay, trying to ignore all of the ships on the horizon. 

It is hard to truly comprehend the kind of poverty of a place like Manila without experiencing it first hand. You can be told about it and see pictures, but it seems so distant until it is right in your face. I had always known about it, but this was the first time I was truly exposed to it. I was forced to confront something troubling, the kind of thing we push to the back of our mind so that we can go about our lives and worry about our own problems.

It is hard to turn down someone’s begging when they are filthy and hungry. You can look around you and see that they are coming to you because there is no other option, no real hope. At the same time, you only have so much money and time. I found myself giving pocket change to begging children and tipping people more than I would have in the US.

However, as you go on it wears you down. Especially when you start to see how organized it is. There is a tout on every corner ready to push you into a taxi. Every taxi driver is trying to take you to whoever gives him a cut. And that guy sends you out with guides who try to get a tip at every turn. Waiting there is someone who is trying to sell you something, pushing it on you to get whatever they can. Even though they need that money bad, it is hard to not feel like you are prey that is being cornered. They are not predators, though, just desperate people.

I had brought enough money to eat on, to pay my expenses. I was not some rich traveler, even if I was better off than everyone around me. After a while I realized that there was no choice if I wanted to be able to eat my own dinner. So, I hardened my heart to the suffering around me. I looked the other way and kept going where I was headed when people tried to stop me.

After boredom set in, and I had a nice Thai salad, I started back for the hostel. That was easier said than done. There were a lot of jeepneys outside to choose from and I was wary of the touts. I finally found one that was going to where I needed. The open air breeze from the jeepney felt good in the evening humidity. I got off when I reached the intersection I needed, but was not sure where to meet the next jeepney.

Pro Tip: Get someone at your hostel/hotel to write down directions in the local language. That way you can just show people where you are trying to get too. It may help, if they know where the place is.

This was easily the most nerve wracking part of my trip. It was dark and I was not sure of where to go. The street was crowded where I was (a night market of sorts), but that did not make it safe. As a foreigner there was no way for me not to stand out. The police were no help, and not to be trusted. I followed the directions I was given as best I could understand them. I was in a state of heightened awareness that I rarely reach. I pointedly tried to keep my belt pouch hidden while looking as big, tough, and confident as I could manage.

Help finally came in the form of another American, who was having a worse time of things than me. He had been robbed before meeting me. A thief tore out his pants pocket to get his wallet. That left him with no money to get to the other side of the city where he was house sitting. After he showed me the corner to wait on (and warned me that it was a dangerous spot) I gave him some pesos to help him and his stray kitten on his way.

I was the first one on the jeepney and ready to get out of Dodge. Unfortunately, I think I got off a stop early, or maybe they just use a different return route. I was back to hoofing it a few blocks. The nightlife was in full swing. Bright lights and women in dresses were set to draw the eye, and the rest of you, in. The touts were aggressive. Every place I walked by there was someone trying to beg and bully me to come in. Actually, I felt kind of bad turning the prostitutes down. They were very polite.

I did make it back to Where2Next. It was a relief to be out of the heat. I spent a bit of time trying to plan for the next day. I had little luck using the internet. I was able to meet a few of the other guests for a bit. As it turned out, I was the only one to not get ripped off by an airport taxi. I made a loose plan for the next day to visit the Taal Volcano.

I woke up ready to go after another cold night. As soon as breakfast was in my stomach I headed for the bus station. The first stop is easy, but finding the next pickup is always the hard part. After a bit I finally gave up and hailed a taxi. It turned out I could have walked the rest of the way if I had known where to go. I got some water and a snack then hopped on my bus. It was a fairly decent transport, like a bus you might get in other cities. It felt a bit out of place. I was headed out of the city so I hoped I would see some of the countryside, but really only saw urban sprawl until near the end.

I was pretty worried that I had gotten off at the wrong spot and was going to be stuck in the middle of nowhere at first. I had the impression that there would be people waiting around to take tourists to the volcano lake when I got off. Where I was did not even constitute a bus stop hardly. There was not even a road sign.

Fortunately, with some searching I found a tout who called over a trike. For fast transportation in the Philippines a trike is hard to beat, provided safety is not a big concern. They weld a makeshift sidecar to a motorcycle, usually with a roof. No seat belts are provided so it's best to have a strong grip.

Down the mountain.

Cow

The fast paced ride down the winding mountain road was exhilarating. I never knew what would be waiting around the next turn. The driver had to dodge us around some rocks that had fallen onto our side of the road while I prayed that we did not meet oncoming traffic. The view that sped by was worth the danger though. I could finally see some of the tropical scenery while careening around the curves. I could even make out the lake that was my destination. The only wildlife I was able to spot, though, were some cows that looked as starved as the people.

My volcanic destination.

The driver finally came to a stop at a boatshop. That is how things are arranged in the Philippines. Everyone sends you to the person he has a deal with. I negotiated my trip arrangements with the manager. He wanted more than I was expecting from my research. I told him, truthfully, that I could not afford the bus back at that price. Seeing he was about to lose me, he knocked the price down as a "special" deal.

Pro Tip: Don’t be afraid to haggle. No the local rules on it so you do not appear rude though.

I was led down to an outrigger for the trip to the volcanic island. I turned down the offer of a poncho. I was hot enough that getting splashed sounded good. It was the first time that day that I had to really relax. As the boat splashed through the waves I did not have to worry about getting off at the right spot or holding on for dear life. I just watched as the volcano moved closer.

When we reached the island I nimbly crossed the boats and planks to the shore. I was determined to not look like one of the rich gawkers that complain about the lack of air conditioning.  A boy showed me to where the mules were waiting. I had chosen to ride up because I was told it would be faster. Honestly, I would have been ahead to go up on foot.

I was paired with a bare foot guide who kept up with my mount. The red trail was dusty and a cloud was kicked up by the people in front of me. It was a good thing that I had grabbed a face mask. The rusty dust choked the air and stung the eyes. I had to focus most of my attention on not slipping off of my cantankerous mount. Eventually I asked my guide to hold my water bottle so I could use both hands. Needless to say I felt quite dumb at that point. I almost got off of the mule to walk up.

Smoke issues from the ground. The sun came back out on the trip up.

When not hanging on for dear life, well to avoid a bruised backside at any rate, I was able to glimpse the surrounding terrain. Past red rocks I could see the tropical foliage. Beyond that the blue lake stretched back to the shore. I was reminded that this was more than an island by whips of white gas venting from the earth. The volcanic puffs wafted in the air as I was shook up the trail towards the waiting caldera.

Standing on a volcano.

My guide led me up to the edge on foot where I could finally see what had drawn me all this way. It was quite the view. Inside the volcano was another lake. Far below us its bluegreen water stretched out. It is a funny feeling to be looking down at a lake inside of a lake. I could see past the edge to the greater lake beyond. Looking closely I could see steam vents by the shore as another reminder that this was a very active volcano.

My mascot.

There were people waiting up there of course, trying to get what they could out of the tourists. Even before I had dismounted a young girl asked if I wanted to buy my guide a drink. So I fished out some change and bought him a coke. Interestingly there were people with golf clubs that would sell you a ball to drive as far out over the lake as you could. That struck me as less than eco-friendly, and I was about broke anyway. A man had also taken my picture on the ride up and pushed me to buy the polaroid. I relented and now have a picture of me looking like a jackass on top of a jackass.

As pretty as it was, it is the kind of thing you look at for a few minutes then leave. The journey was longer than the viewing much as cooking is longer than the meal. If I had more time I might have tried hiking down to the lake, but I wanted off of the island before dark. The ride back down was no less jolting, but at least I didn't feel like I would slip off. The boat ride back let me relax again, though the water felt colder as the sun dropped lower. The ride back up the mountain was more good fun. I was a bit more prepared for clicking some photos.

This is where the return becomes...complex. Public restrooms are not so available in Manila. While I am not above going on a tree, the bus stop was in town. Speaking of which, the stop was again not marked so I had to ask a tout outside of a hotel who was nice enough to point the way. So on the long bus ride back I was forced to hold my bladder while watching bad scifi movies. The kind of stuff that is two steps bellow Sharknado bad. The worst part is I didn't even get to see the end of the second movie! When I got off of the bus I tried to find a bathroom, even asking a shop if I could use theirs. When that failed, I did what the locals do, I found the side of a building. Unfortunately as I was recreating the Mississippi River in the gutter a security guard interrupted me. So I had to zip up and skedattle. The last thing I needed was to spend the last of my money bribing the police.

So, after the troubles of the night before, I did the sensible thing and just hired a taxi. Back at the hostel I spent some time chatting with the other guests. I hoped I might find someone to hang out with the next day, but no such luck. So instead I played jenga with the hostel staff until I was ready for bed.

The final day, I wake up and pack my gear. I am tired, have a headache, and generally ready to go home to Taiwan. Unfortunately my flight was not till the afternoon so I had a lot of time to kill. No other guests wanted to do anything with me and I did not have a lot of options. So, I napped. Yes, I layed down on a beanbag and napped.

Do not worry, that is not all. Even feeling lousy, I don’t like to waste time. The only real option was walking to a historic district that was nearby. I walked back to where I had gotten on the jeepneas before. I walked around the square and enjoyed the view of a statue depicting a hero from the Philippines history. He looked pretty cool holding up this sword and shield.

I walked down to the bay walk. I was suppose to follow it to the historic district. The bay was nothing much to look at. As I continued down the path I had to walk around homeless people. I felt as though I was invading their home just by walking down the path. I walked until I even came to the American embassy. I did not reach the historic district though. Maybe I should have walked farther, maybe my directions were bad. I turned back and walked some the other way, trying to enjoy the weather. Perhaps the most striking thing of the walk was seeing someone living up in a tree. Those without learn to make do.

I went back to the hostel and got my backpack. A cab took me to the airport. The airport sucks. Case in point, the terminals are not connected. I ended up at the wrong terminal. That meant I had to hire another cab to get to the right one. I was ready to be done with things at that point. My trials were not done when I got stopped by security. They said there was a knife in my backpack. They were corrected. Fortunately, with a bit of fast hands and changing pockets I convinced them they were wrong, or at least that it was not worth holding up the line to keep searching. Things were pretty uneventful the rest of the way home.

Pro Tip: Make sure to keep a bit of your home currency ready to buy things like a bus ticket, dinner, and minutes for your phone when you land. Keep your keys someplace easy to get to.

It might sound like something of a dreadful trip. I certainly warn everyone about going there. It was undeniably memorable though. It was eye opening in the way it forced me to see things I never would have before. The danger went well beyond anything I was use to. My comfort zone was destroyed. I proved things to myself though. I proved I could survive doing something like that. I had the cunning, awareness, and attitude to come out on top from a trip where others were less fortunate. I avoided being robbed, taken advantage of, and bullied. That was something to learn from and grow.

Look at that tired schmuck. 

The Hot Springs of Wulai

I had been wanting to go to Wulai since I had first heard of it. I had been told that it was a great place for river tracing. People had described beautiful cascades along forest creeks. It was also known for its hot springs. The weather predictions were grim, but we still set out for Wulai and it's hot springs. While there was some sun, the sky was overcast and the wind blowing. We had all experienced yesterday’s downpour and knew things were not likely to be much better today.

Lawrence, one of the guys from the hostel I was living at, was trying to organize a trip and I signed on. It was a bit iffy, but I determined to go even if I did not get any hiking in. So we managed to get a group of eight together. Garry, Nick, Ned and his girlfriend, Vince, Lisa, Lawrence, and myself. We took the MRT to Xidan, then hopped on a bus to ride up the mountains.

Group photo

The bus ride was gorgeous. We rode up through winding mountain roads that offered stunning views. The rain and clouds gave the mountains a misty look. We passed over raging rivers with whitewater whipped up from the recent downpours. Waterfalls breached the forests to spill their contents into the waiting river below. I regretted not being able to take pictures, but a camera phone while standing in a zigzagging bus is hopeless.

Smoke on the mountain.

Soon we were disembarking and it was starting to rain. That was the beginning of short downpours followed by calm that would be a hallmark of the day. Some of us had umbrellas while others chose ponchos. I was in the later camp for better or worse.

Heading up the road we found a line of shops waiting. The smell of mouthwatering food drifted to us in the cool air. Dieting in Taiwan can be tricky. Sure, there is a lot of healthy food, but then you come to a stand sailing wild boar sausage with a garlic baste. I, of course, ate the sausage and have no regrets about indulging. It was one of the most succulent and sweet pieces of pork I have had.

The others browsed for their own meals. Me and Lawrence split some chicken. I also tried a tiny shrimp fried in its shell. Turns out that I prefer my shrimp without the shell. The longest wait occurred when the others found a shop selling rice wine. I mostly stood about while the others tasted. For the sake of knowledge I gave my own little taste test. I shall never understand what people see in the flavor of alcoholic beverages. Eventually they all chipped in for a bottle to drink (which would not actually get consumed till about a week later on the hostel roof).

Past that, we finally started to see what had really drawn us into the day trip. Walking out across the bridge that spanned the gorge I could look down at the rushing waters of the river below. It was swollen from the heavy rainfall. The torrent flowed with the raw power of nature. Glancing up through the fog shrouds the forests that ran along the ridge were a vibrant green. The area was soaked with life.

Walking farther down we searched for better views. Despite the weather, we were not the only people out. Others were sitting by the river's edge as though it were a calm creek. They were not inclined to wade out far though. I looked up at the stunning view that nature provided. The cloudiness did not draw away, but rather enhanced the supreme mystery that is the natural world.

After we had our fill of the view and taking pictures we walked along the road towards the hot springs. We found the steps down to the river bank. The hot spring area had a concrete pathway for us to walk along. While stone walls had been built up to pool the hot water there were no changing rooms. For those of us that had opted to not wear our swimming suits on the bus that meant it was time to change under whatever towel we brought along. Fortunately, someone had set up a tarp for their group to sit out of the rain and was nice enough to let us store our gear under it as well.

The higher up pools were a lot hotter. As in you could boil a lobster in them. It was already a warm day so I was content with the lower pools. The warm water was refreshing once I found one that was just right. It eased the muscles and took away any chill from the drizzle.

A stone sauna had been built under the steps to one of the upper tiers. It took me a few tries to acclimate, but eventually I managed a few minutes in there. Someone had brought lemongrass to freshen up the air. Even without the heat, it was a bit too claustrophobic for my tastes.

Even as we had crossed the bridge over the river we had seen people swimming. they could not actually swim against the torrent. Instead they started upstream and got out downstream. Some of the guys wanted to join the old men and women swimming the river and found a point to jump in at the hot springs.

I don't care for cold water. Jumping into a river of cold water isn't really my thing. I was there and that was part of the adventure though. So after a while I built up some nerve and walked to the end of the stone pier.

The sauna

I'm a good swimmer and was on the swim team when I was a teenager. I know a thing or two about jumping into water. Unfortunately I had not thought about how much the sauna and hot springs had opened up my sinuses. I jumped in and that cold water went right up my nose and I came up sputtering and a tad embarrassed. I swam over to the stairs and hauled myself out. I was quite ready to get back into some warm water.

Into the river

It is at this point that I would add a word of caution to anyone going to Wulai. The stones get pretty slick there. Not just from water, but algae build up. This is an open public place so there is not someone going around to clean it every night like at the local pool. You have to be careful where you step. I took a spill while trying to go around someone that wanted to stand and talk where everyone needed to walk. Better me than most people because I was able to twist my fall to the right and just bruised my butt. If I had not, I would have fallen to the left about three or four feet on to concrete, hit my head, and rolled down into the aforementioned river. This story would probably have a far less happy ending in that case.

After some more relaxing in the hot springs, me and everyone else were ready to go. There was a side area where you could go to rinse off. I actually liked that a lot because I prefer the feeling of hot water running over me to just sitting in it. Then, after drying off...it was time to get dressed in the rain. What can I say, I hate walking around in wet swim trunks. It literally rubs me the wrong way.

Once we were all assembled we headed back towards the bus area. At this point group cohesion started to fall apart. Some people wanted food. Others walked slower or faster. Me, I got some more of that amazing sausage and something that I think was egg with chocolate (it was delicious) and was probably the first to the bus stop. Lawrence and Lisa met up with me. The bus came and we took it without the rest, figuring everyone should be able to make it home on their own. I hate to leave people behind, but everyone was an adult and knew how to get back to the hostel. We did try to phone them, but no luck.

We were all a little worn out on the ride back. I wanted a shower for the same reasons you want one after going to the beach. It was getting dark so there was less of a view to enjoy on the ride back. Still, it was very much a trip to remember. I spent my time thinking about coming back and what I would do then. Hopefully, the weather will be a bit more sunny on the next visit.

The river sure was flowing. 

Hiking in a Typhoon

I have gone on some hikes during some pretty bad weather. I’ve hiked in the rain. I’ve hiked in the snow. I’ve hiked in the mud. Hiking during a typhoon just seemed like the natural progression of things. Turned out to be better than I would have thought.

My friend Grace invited me to join her on a hike with a group of people she found on meetup.com. I am always up for a little adventure. As the date grew nearer, though, the weather was starting to look a bit rough. A typhoon was blowing in to blanket Taiwan with some rain. Being rained on is not my idea of fun, but as long as everyone else was going, I was not about to back out.

I met Grace at Jingmei MRT station. We found the hike leader and a few others waiting. The weather had scared off the rest. The hike leader explained the plan to us. We would be hiking up Xianjiyan and then we might head around Hsih Hsin University depending on how everyone felt. Once we felt comfortable that no one else was coming, we set off down the road.

The weather was not as bad as feared. The wind whipped about, but there was not much rain. A fine mist was ever present though. The clouds came and passed, threatening, but never quite bursting over us. They would part, though, to let a hazy light through for a clear view. It was the winds that made it feel like a storm. No gentle breeze, these storm winds buffeted against us like they wanted to send us reeling down the mountain.

Stone face.

It all left me feeling charged though. I was ready to run over the ridges. However, I was asked not to play Eye of the Tiger as we ascended  the stone steps. We reached stops along the way to peer out through the dripping foliage at the hazy cityscape. Pretty soon one of the girls had to turn back. Heels are not the best shoes for hiking.

Flower in the wind.

The first significant stops was at a small rest area. In better weather people could sit under the shade and look over the city. While I took in the misty view with the rest, my attention became fixed on some pretty flowers. I became determined to get a good picture of them. Of course, taking a good picture with only a cell phone camera can be hard. It reaches near impossible when the wind is whipping your target back and forth. Needless to say the best shot I got was still a touch blurry.

Continuing on we reached the grand scenic view for the trip. The Taiwanese are fans of situating temples on the tops of mountains. The idea seems to work out quite well. We were able to get out of the sprinkling rain and look out over the city from under the deck awning. It was an excellent view. At the same time I could admire how people would come to the temple for worship. The invigorating walk up the mountain served to emphasize that one was a step away from civilization and a step closer to heaven.

The temple provided a nice rest stop and bathroom break. We could look out over the city as we  rested. I was feeling to charged to sit still for long. The breeze meant I was not getting too hot or sweaty so my energy was still good. After a group picture we headed on.

Group photo courtesy of Marcus Windmark.

My eye was keen to spot anything of interest. A few butterflies braved the wind. The leaves of a papaya tree fluttered wildly as the wind picked up while bamboo acted like a wall against the small gale. I took time to look at the rocks we passed by, including one carved to look like a face. On any hike through the mountains I am always keenly searching for signs of wildlife, large and small. They were not much favoring us that day though.

Papaya. A bit of wind.

What goes up soon goes down. We hiked back down the hillside and into a more urban jungle. It was here that we had the option to keep going or turned back. I was not about to turn back, and it seemed like no one else was ready to quit yet either. We walked across the college campus to hit the next trail. I was in some desperate need of water, having already downed what I had brought with me. Unfortunately the campus water dispenser only had hot water. Not the thing you want to cool you down.

Back up the mountainside we traveled. The trail snaked up along a ridgeline behind the school. It was then that I made an interesting discovery. They had razor wire strung behind the girls dorms. The Taiwanese do not take well to peeping Toms it seems.

We finally reached the end of our hike, back down in the streets. Grace and I walked over to the bus stop to head back towards our side of the city. Relaxing on the bus and taking the pressure off of my feet gave me some time to reflect on the day. The light on and off rain combined with the wind gave the hike a unique feel. It also made it clear that I should always keep my poncho stuffed in my adventure bag (even though it never rained enough that I needed it). I agreed with Grace that we should see about joining the group for more hikes in the future. For the time being though, I wanted to lay down and eat. Hiking in a typhoon does take a bit out of you.

  

Taipei 101 in the distance. A bit overcast, but not to bad.

Experiencing a Mosque

The Grand Taipei Mosque next to Daan Park.

S
So, yesterday with Grace (my girlfriend), I visited the Grand Taipei Mosque. I had wanted to see it for a while, but never quite managed to fit it into a trip. As well, I have long wanted to visit a mosque as a way to expand my horizons and understanding. I feel it is the kind of experience that everyone should have. In a world where people grow fearful and hateful, understanding is the key to peace.

We walked down along Daan park until we reached the mosque. Part of me wondered how I had missed it before with its dome and minarets. Racing by on a bike, though, it is easy to miss the little details, so I will forgive myself. People were milling about outside, preparing for the Friday prayer at noon. We ventured up close to look around. There was a little touch screen monitor for information on the mosque, including what was required to enter the main hall and worship chambers. Fortunately my shorts sank down to my knees, providing the required level of cover. Grace had been admonishing me for not checking the website to find out about the dress code. I chalked it up to something I knew but forgot I knew. Also, it was 30C (about 90F), so I wanted shorts.

We walked around the outside foyer. I opted to not go inside, they seemed to have some renovations going on. I was not sure how to properly do the cleansing, so aired on the side of caution and just looked from the entrance. There were pamphlets to flip through. What caught my attention were free copies of the Quaran in English. I took one because I have wanted an opportunity to read some from it.

A man came up to me as we were looking around. His English name is David (and I cannot readily pronounce his Chinese or Arabic names). He was a friendly man Taiwanese man in his eighties. When he found out that I was from Ohio he became very excited because he had studied engineering at Ohio State University. We spent some time talking. David was as passionate as he was friendly. Particularly when he talked about how sad he was about people fighting over religion. It touched my heart when his eyes began to water as he lamented how many innocent people suffered because people hated each other when they should be as brothers.

After talking with David for a little bit, Grace and I went outside to wait for the prayers. We took up a shady spot to sit along the street under some trees. There was a man selling shawarma outside. He was another nice fellow from Tibet. I bought some lunch for Grace and I. It could have used a bit more meat and less onion, but was still good. He was not the only person selling food, though I think most of the other vendors were selling more Taiwanese fare. Inside the mosque, I believe some of the food was just asking for donation.

At 1200 the call to prayer started. The adhan was not loud or intrusive as some might have you believe. We took up standing places at the entrance. People started to slowly trickle in and we were able to watch how they went about getting ready. Some chose to wear traditional hats and wraps while others stayed in street cloths. People were friendly, with many asking where I was from. I met men from Gambia and Indonesia. I could see people of African and European descent mixed in with the Chinese and middle eastern.

At 1230 the imam started a sermon in Arabic and English. He talked about how most problems came from people not fallowing the rules, both divine and mortal. He then talked about how things are best when you accept the plan that God lays out before you. Do not worry about what is happening, it is all part of something greater than you can imagine. It was like a lot of sermons I have heard at churches. It ended with the ritual prayers and bowing. It was interesting to see so many people go through the motions together.

When the prayers had ended, Grace and I took our leave. We planned to spend the rest of the day shopping (and eating). Still, I was very satisfied with what I had seen. It was a new experience and I would have the opportunity to flip through one of history's most important books when I got home.

Allahu Akbar and assalamu alaikom.

Return to Elephant Mountain

Elephant Mountain has been one of my favorite adventures so far. That is why I had to return. Albeit this time better prepared. Water is important when you are hiking in high heat and humidity. Also the right clothes and shoes. Really, the first time just spur of the moment, but this time I put some thought into it.

Always a good view from the mountain.

I woke early in the morning and got dressed. I packed up my adventure bag with two bottles of water. After a quick breakfast I rented a ubike and was on my way. It was an easy ride through the streets on an early Saturday morning. The crowd and traffic was light, letting me zip down the sidewalk. I cruised along by Taipei 101. I watched as other early risers enjoyed the park as I parked my bike.

The hike up was just as I remembered it from last time: exhausting. This time I was ready to deal with it though. I had plenty of water this time and the right set of cloths. The sun was bearing down, but I paid it little mind.

Just as the time before, I trekked my way up the steps. I took in each sight as though it were new. I looked out across the vistas that were presented and smiled at the feeling of having escaped the jungle of concrete and steel for a short while. I listened, looked, and smelled my surroundings. The mountain was flush with life.

Which way to go?

This time I opted to try a new trail. I walked across the mountain ridge till I found a trail heading down. I walked down the steep stairs and into a new world. I found a nice rock outcrop to sprint up and look through the canopy to scan the area. The trees were spread out before me like a great green roof. Farther down I found something unexpected. Areas had been cleared away and looked like they had been set up as some kind of sports area in the past. I could imagine people hiking up the trail for an early morning game of badminton. To me, now out of use, they looked like a good place for morning martial arts practice. That would wait for another day.

Reminds me of Old Man's Cave

Continuing down I came to a point where the path branched off. It was a tough choice, but for this trip I chose the path that I figured would lead me back around to where I had hiked up the mountain. This trail took me past steep cliffs. I was happy to find that there was even a passage through a stone tunnel. It remind me of the hikes at Old Man’s Cave back home.

I came upon a nice rest area. It had awnings and tables to relax under. Even better, it had bathrooms. I rested there for a good while, taking in the view and just thinking. With few people out and about, it was an ideal place to clear my mind. Being away from the noise of the city is the only way to hear myself think some days.

The hike came to an end as I followed the trail to its conclusion. It had wrapped be back around the mountain to intersect with a portion that I had hiked up earlier. I headed back down the stony steps towards the park. I had to purchase more water from the lady at the foot at the mountain. Two bottles was just not enough water for the humid weather. The hike had invigorated me, however, so my day was far from done.

Bidding the mountain farewell for the day, I hopped back on a ubike. I cruised down the sidewalk along one of the better bike lanes. I traveled past Taipei 101 once more, but now I was focused on the Holiday Jade and Flower Markets. I always enjoy looking at jade, even pieces I cannot hope to buy. I was more of a window shopper that day, but it was relaxing. The flower market made me hunger for the day when I would have my own place to move into. It would be a first stop for me to procure some house plants. Finally, the craft market is nice, though I spent most of my time at tables selling binoculars, microscopes, and other gadgets. An hour later, the only things I left with was a bag of  peanuts and some passion fruit to make a meal.

A great spot to rest and think.

For the next few hours I took a bicycle tour of the city. Pedal power can get you to a lot of places. I cruised by various monuments and temples. I made the mistake of getting lost in some market areas. A word to the wise, bikes do not do so well when the sidewalks are narrow and crowded. I did make a few attempts at shopping, or at least research for shopping. So much to buy, so little money. Adventures are expensive, at least if you want a good camera to capture the memories. Fortunately, the people are friendly, and that eases a great deal of the journey.

Riding buy some of the government buildings.

Once I had thoroughly exhausted myself, run up a great debt for the ubike, and ensured my butt would be angry at me the next morning, I turned myself towards home. A tricky ride itself. With only marginal effort I un-lost myself and rode back to the hostel. It felt good to have accomplished something for the day. So after a good shower I relaxed and enjoyed my peanuts and passion fruit.

Night Markets

Night markets are one of the most exciting things about Taiwan. To me they feel like a mix of festival and boardwalk. I am reminded of walking down main street during the Apple Festival back home. Colorful lights flash in the night. Food stalls sell a variety of dishes to a hungry crowd. Vendors try to sell their goods to everyone that passes. The only thing missing are games and rides, and some do have games.

A crowded night at Shilin.

The night markets are crowded affairs. People stream through the streets in a massive press of bodies. It is easy to be caught in the flow and pushed along. To add to the traffic the omnipresent scooters are still on the road, along with cars sometimes. People walking in the streets does not close them down.

Street crafts. Who doesn't love giant robots?

For all of their hustle and bustle, the night markets are fairly safe. Crime is low in Taiwan and this is not different. While I have heard of pickpockets, they are not some omnipresent scourge. If you keep good situational awareness and watch out for scooters, then you should be safe.

A store devoted to One Piece

There are plenty of night markets to choose from. Some are known for specializing in a particular good or service such as food. They come in a range of sizes as well. Some are huge bazaars where almost anything can be found, while others are just a street where the locals get dinner. There are also a few areas that are almost like night markets, especially on the weekends. The Ximending shopping area sees a lot of street venders pop up on friday and saturday nights.

Shillin is hands down the biggest night market in the city. It is a winding maze that worms through what feels like a thousand miles of stalls and stands. The streets are packed with shoppers to the point of pedestrian traffic jams. Those who lack stalls will throw down blankets and sell their goods in the middle of the street. This adds to the congestion by creating bottlenecks.

Venturing through the crowd can be very rewarding though. Deals can abound and haggling is possible. The merchants keep their prices pretty reasonable though, so it is not necessary to fight over prices. Next to designer boutiques you can find nicknack shops. The Taiwanese love their cellphones, so it seems like every other shop is selling smartphone accessories in every size, shape, and color. There are entire stores that are nothing but smartphone cases.

Food does not take a backseat. There are stalls, carts, and restaurants galore. One can gorge on snackfoods and local treats or settle in for a meal at trendy steakhouse. I tend to muddle along, eating whatever catches my fancy, and has a short line. Of course, one of the most famous things about Shillin is its food. Keep an eye out and you will see the famed penis shaped cakes.

A trip to Shilin isn't complete without seeing some interesting food.

Not far from the school I work at is the Lehua night market. I favor it some nights after work for a treat. A huge candy store supplies me with treats to pass out in class. It is a small, but lively market. It keeps your attention with a wide range of stalls. Buy shoes, eat food, and play games. I think the best meal I got there was a Cambodian shop. Healthy, yet filling.

Raohe is known for its food. I was glad I had my friend Grace to guide me along the cramped street. The experience that made it special for me was a soup shop where chinese medicine was used in the recipes. The temple just outside the market was nice to stop at while a short walk away we were able to look out over the city from across the river.

Temple at the heart of Shilin

The most recent night market adventure for me was finally visiting the infamous Snake Ally. It is famed for selling snake soup and drinks of snake blood. Wandering down the street you can see shops with live snakes. Several featured cases with large Burmese pythons. Of course, snakes are not the only thing Snake Ally is famed for. It is noted for being a more adult district. It is as close to a red light district as you will find in Taipei. However, you are more likely to see shops selling porn and adult toys. It is kind of funny that for a conservative society you will see stands full of porn right next to a family restaurant and no one thinks much of it. Couple often visit to pick up a few aids before hitting the abundant love hotels.

A puzzle store

And that is but a small sample of the night markets, and only in Taipei at that. Over time I hope to explore many more. I have hit most of the big ones in Taipei. I still need to cross the infamous Snake Alley off of the list.

I hunt for deals on goods I need and baubles I do not. Cloths are a touch harder to find as the markets cater more to women in that area. That said, Shilin provides a good place to search out gifts for female friends. It is little junk stores that I enjoy. After searching around for a bit I can walk out with some supplies for teaching, a plate I need, and that thing (you know, the thing that you always needed but never knew about).

It is, of course, my stomach that drives most financial exchanges at the night markets. With such treats to be tried, I can always expect something new. Everyone that I go with wants me to try their favorite bubble milk tea. I still need to try the stinky tofu, just to say I did. Sausage and pork buns and fried chicken, oh my!

Thinking on all of this makes me hungry. Maybe after writing I should make plans to head to Shillin for some good eats. I need some new earbuds as well. A shopping trip is in order it seems. Dinner, some cheep goods, desert, and maybe some entertainment.